ACNE, a Swedish fashion brand, joined FWF in 2008.
- Brand Performance Check October 2009
- Brand Performance Check May 2011
- Brand Performance Check August 2012
Acne Studios is in process of implementing FWFs management system requirements. The sourcing practices of Acne Studios generally support effective implementation of the CoLP. Acne Studios generally aims at having long term relations with suppliers. Acne Studios maintains a business relation for more than 5 years with suppliers that account for 40% of its total purchasing volume. Acne Studios has substantial leverage (at least 10% of the factory production capacity) at suppliers that represent 39% of its volume.
Acne Studios transformed its approach to monitor working conditions in factories in 2011 and 2012. In 2009 and 2010 all audits were carried out by company staff who visited suppliers. Whereas activities of the company to monitor working conditions covered suppliers that then represented 88% of purchasing volume (including suppliers in low risk countries) FWF concluded in 2010 that this approach did not meet FWFs requirements and that improvements needed to be made. In response Acne Studios increased the amount of audits that were carried out with local FWF audit teams. FWF finds that the company strengthened its approach to monitor and improve working conditions.
From 2009 to 2011, 7 factory audits by FWF teams were carried out at suppliers as part of the activities of Acne Studios to monitor working conditions. Acne Studios’ monitoring percentage is 65.5%, which does not meet the required percentage based on the duration of FWF membership (90% for the third year of membership since 2008). It should be noted that Acne had actively monitored working conditions in a greater amount of factories by means of factory visits by company staff, while accompanied by a local FWF auditor. FWF does however not count these visits towards the threshold.
Staff of Acne Studios checks during factory visits if the translated version of the CoLP is posted including the contact details of FWFs local complaints handler. However, this does not ensure that the CoLP is structurally posted in all factories where production takes place. In 2012 FWF auditors found in 3 factories that the CoLP was not posted at the time of the audit. In 2011 FWF did not receive complaints from workers of factories producing for Acne Studios.
In 2011 and 2012 FWF audit teams carried out 5 audits at factories producing for Acne Studios in Turkey and China. The audit in Turkey pointed out that no violations were found with regard to forced labour and discrimination. Wages for regular hours were paid according to legislation. Overtime is not formally calculated and not in all cases paid according to law. Employment contracts were not signed by employer
In all three factories in China no major violations were found with regard to child labour, forced labour, discrimination. For these factories the same areas for improvement were highlighted: excessive overtime was found, and several improvements were needed with regard to health and safety. In these factories a functioning mechanism for worker representation was lacking.
In two factories that were audited twice during 2011-2012, considerable improvements were found after the second audit. These included the development of policies on various standards, ending practices of payments below minimum wages and various improvements on health and safety. Acne Studios has posted its annual social reports for 2011 on its website.
Acne Studios evaluates steps taken in context of FWF membership as part of regular internal discussions. The CSR manager, buying staff and CEO are involved in these ongoing discussions.